Babies and young juveniles are fed salads, crickets, small B. dubia, and mini mealworms. A 6" baby will require 90% protein in the form of insects and 10% greens. Sub-adult dragons also require the nutrients found in hard fresh veggies such as green beans, sugar snap beans, peas, okra, acorn and butternut squashes. Fruits like mango, kiwi, papaya and raspberries are fed once to twice a week.
Hatchlings are fed 3 times per day. Currently we feed a mixed protein diet of crickets, B. dubia, mini mealworms, phoenix worms, and fresh high calcium greens. Juveniles should be given as many crickets as the dragon will consume in 30 minutes. Feed juveniles 2- 3 times a day with appropriately sized crickets, no larger than the width of the dragon's mouth. Place about 5 crickets in the cage at a time until the dragon is full. Crickets should be dusted with supplements that support the fast growing bones of your dragon. My choice is (Repti-Calcium) with vitamin D3. I dust crickets once per day for juveniles. A vitamin supplement (Herptivite) is given once per week. Crickets will also need to be gut loaded with other things to make them more nutritious. Any commercial cricket feed is fine. You can also use high calcium foods like the heavy leaves and stalks from mustard and collard greens, kale, potato, and chopped fresh green beans. Veggies will supply both food and moisture for crickets. Remove any remaining crickets within 1 hour of feeding. Remember to remove crickets at night, as they will bite hatchlings while they sleep.
These worms are naturally high in calcium and low in phosphorous and, do not need to be dusted. Phoenix worms can be plumped in a glass of water a few minutes before feeding to add additional moisture. This will help to provide additional fluids for dragons that do not drink much. These worms do not need to be gut loaded and keep for weeks at room temperature.
Collard and mustard greens are excellent, as are turnip green, arugula, endive, escarole, and dandelion. Romaine lettuce, kale, parsley and others can be given on occasion.
Fruits like mango, kiwi, papaya and raspberries are fed once to twice a week.
Babies and small juveniles are misted every morning where they lap water drops off of the walls, decorations, and each other. Spraying babies’ head to tail twice a day for several minutes with a plant mister works best. Babies are misted in the AM with warm water about an hour and a half after lights go on and an hour and a half before their first feeding. PM misting should take place 2 hours after the last feeding and an hour and a half before lights go out. Mist from over the dragon's head. Mist and then wait a second. Then mist again and until the dragon starts to lap up water. Keep misting until the dragon lifts his head back up. Dragons can dehydrate due to the high temps at which they bask. Mist head to tail tip to prevent tail constrictions. Do NOT mist more than twice per day or the dragon will stay too cool to develop an appetite. Most dragons won't drink from bowls and need to be soaked and/or misted. Sub-adults and adults are soaked in a shallow litter box where they lap water off the bottom. Fill it dragon-neck-deep with warm, not hot water for a weekly/monthly swim. Warm water can stimulate defecation; you can soak your (adult) dragon before letting him roam (under supervision) to avoid “accidents”.